A fresh take on tapas in the heart of Brighton
Tucked into Bartholomew Square in the heart of Brighton’s Lanes is Brisa Tapas & Bar. It feels like the kind of place you stumble across on holiday, when you’re wandering cobbled streets and suddenly find yourself drawn in by warm lighting, clinking glasses and the promise of something delicious.
Brighton isn’t short of tapas restaurants, but Brisa has entered the scene with a quiet confidence, offering a menu that balances Spanish tradition with a fresh, modern twist. From the outside, Brisa presents a laid-back Mediterranean charm, complete with a terrace that comes into its own when the sun’s out. Inside, the atmosphere is somewhere between relaxed and chic, inviting enough for a casual lunch with friends, but stylish enough for a long dinner. There’s a buzz in the air, fuelled as much by its lively bar as by the small plates arriving at tables.
The menu is a well-considered blend of familiar tapas staples and more inventive offerings. To begin, the pan con tomate is a simple but well-executed classic, toasted sourdough generously topped with grated tomato, parsley and onion, reminding you that great ingredients often need very little else. Alongside it, the pimientos de padrón arrive glistening with olive oil, their blistered skins dusted with Maldon salt.
Patatas bravas are, of course, non-negotiable in any tapas spread, and Brisa’s version is hearty and satisfying: roughly cut, double-fried potatoes covered in spicy brava sauce and a cooling alioli. It is the sort of dish that keeps fingers drifting back across the table for just one more taste. For something a little lighter, the burrata is a standout, creamy and indulgent, paired with homemade pesto, Kalamata olives, pine nuts and a peppery scattering of rocket. The kitchen also champions seasonal produce, with an Isle of Wight heritage tomato salad that celebrates the vibrant simplicity of ripe fruit and decent olive oil.
More adventurous options show off Brisa’s creative streak. Croquetas come stuffed with spinach and goat’s cheese, their crisp shells giving way to a molten centre, lifted by a drizzle of honey. The tacos de vieiras are another surprise, crunchy tacos filled with scallops, guacamole and katsuobushi, a playful fusion that works better than you might expect. From the sea, the gambas al ajillo delivers exactly what you want: plump tiger prawns sizzling in chilli and garlic oil, begging to be mopped up with bread. The arroz negro, a squid ink paella rice studded with calamari and prawns, topped with a swirl of alioli, is perhaps the dish that best showcases the kitchen’s skill, bold in flavour and perfectly executed.
Vegetarians are well catered for here, not as an afterthought but with dishes that hold their own against the seafood and meat options. That inclusivity makes Brisa a versatile choice for groups, where everyone can find something to enjoy.
The bar is integral to the Brisa experience, with cocktails and wines designed to complement the food and encourage lingering. Not to mention jugs of sangria, including the cava variety, which arrive ice cold with pink peppercorns and slices of apple – a modern twist on its red wine counterpart. It’s as much a place to meet for drinks and a few plates as it is to settle in for a full dining experience. That flexibility suits Brighton well, where diners are often looking for somewhere that can do both.
Brisa’s strengths lie in the overall experience. The setting, the convivial energy of sharing food, the quality of ingredients, and the attention given to both classics and contemporary ideas all combine to create a restaurant that feels very much at home in Brighton’s expansive dining landscape.
Compared with longer-established Spanish restaurants in the city, Brisa distinguishes itself with its modern touches and the sense of something a little more polished, without losing the warmth and accessibility that tapas should bring.
The venue succeeds in offering exactly what most of us want from a tapas bar: food that’s fresh, flavoursome and best enjoyed in good company, with a drink in hand. Whether you’re perched on the terrace on a sunny afternoon with a plate of padrón peppers and a glass of sangria, or working your way through a table full of sharing plates late into the evening, Brisa delivers the kind of relaxed, sociable dining that feels like a small escape.
Brighton’s food scene thrives on variety, and Brisa makes a welcome addition. With its magnanimous hosts, it’s the perfect place for those who love the rhythm of tapas, graze, sip, chat, repeat and at weekends expect to add live music and dancing into the mix.
www.brisarestaurant.co.uk / 10 Bartholomew Square, Brighton BN1 1JS / 01273 526 803
