Words by Samantha Harman
www.squaretownhouse.com
At Square Townhouse Brighton.
Discover Brighton visits Novelo, a brand new fine-dining brunch experience at The Square Townhouse in Kemptown. Did we need to take out a mortgage to eat here? Find out…
Square Townhouse is recognised as the number one hotel in Brighton and is also listed in the top 10% of hotels worldwide. An impressive accolade and testament to the hardworking and dedicated team. As you would expect, luxury and exceptional service are the order of the day within its immaculately decorated interior.
Owner Ginny Popora prides herself on offering an unparalleled high-end experience minus the stuffiness that is often associated with 5-star venues and with this in mind, she and her team created Novelo, their in-house restaurant offering a brand new fine-dining brunch experience that isn’t just for hotel guests.
We were invited along on a sunny July afternoon and after receiving a warm welcome from Ginny and manager James, were shown into the dining room. A bright and inviting space with huge oblique sea view windows, mirrored dining tables and stylish ghost chairs.
The brunch menu, created by chef Amber Lea-Cobb is Italian/New York inspired, an imagined take on breakfast classics and more. The hotel owner’s family hail from Italy and as an extensive traveller Ginny has enjoyed some of her best brunches in the Big Apple. All of her knowledge combined with the talents of Chef Amber has resulted in an inspired and exciting menu and we couldn’t wait to get stuck in.
Where to start? Eggs Benedict is always a favourite; two poached free-range eggs, smoked streaky bacon, a crispy Prosciutto shard with Hollandaise sauce served on a bespoke English muffin. The shard adds a delicious dimension to the dish, a nicely salted crunch mingles well with the soft poached eggs and zingy hollandaise.
We were then presented with caramelised figs and burrata. For those of you who aren’t familiar, a burrata is Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream. This dreamy blob of gorgeousness is oak smoked in the kitchen, while the Kent grown figs are caramelised and scorched – the combination, served on a bed of rocket is light and easy to eat.
Finally, the Tian of Crab. This dish is incredibly intricate and creative. White crab meat with avocado, lime zest & juice, crème fraiche, chilli and shrimp sauce with a bacon and pine nut crust, served inside a crispy potato basket. All of the flavours complimented each other without overpowering the delicate crab meat. Hats off to the chef, her passion for cooking really shines through.
You’re probably thinking this will cost a small fortune right? You’d be mistaken as the majority of the breakfast mains cost just £15 (or less) and there are also vegan & vegetarian options available. Our advice is go now and enjoy boujee surroundings with delicious food and excellent service.
