New menu launch review
The Ivy in the Lanes needs no introduction, but its new menu might. Our editor went along to see if it’s worth the hype.
Dinner at The Ivy? Who could refuse an offer to visit one of the most aesthetically pleasing venues in the city. Known for its striking Art Deco style complete with showstopping onyx bar, I couldn’t wait to immerse myself in luxury.
The friendly host took our coats before seating us at a comfortable table and, as luck would have it, there was a jazz singer to entertain that evening. We perused the menu and both ordered a honey chilli Margarita which was brought tout de suite and ice cold. So far, so good.
I began with roasted queen scallops with creamed spinach, truffle and Parmesan emulsion, pine nut pangrattato, potato puffs and a scattering of Greek cress. The presentation was delightful – three plump scallops resting inside shells with a sweet, buttery and delicate chargrilled flavour. The earthy spinach and nutty Parmesan complemented the shellfish, while the potato puffs added crunch and substance. Altogether, it reminded me of an elevated version of coquille St Jacques.
Next up, I couldn’t resist The Ivy’s signature dish – Shepherd’s Pie. Rich slow-braised lamb and beef beneath a layer of cheddar mash, finished with a rosemary and red wine jus. This iconic dish is a bestseller for good reason. If autumn was a plate of food, it would be this. I paired it with a sensational glass of red wine, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a fruity Italian number, akin to drinking red velvet – no bitter notes, just smooth indulgence.
Somehow we located our dessert stomachs and our waiter recommended the baked apple tart. A picture-perfect vision was presented with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and flambéd with Calvados brandy at the table. A theatrical touch rounded off well with a glass of dessert wine.
I love The Ivy, with its old-world vintage charm and decadent food and drinks. It’s not just another restaurant, it is glamour personified. Even the bathroom is an event, complete with opulent velvet seating and flamboyant octopus wallpaper where many a selfie has been taken. And the new menu? Definitely worth the hype.
www.ivycollection.com / 51a Ship Street, Brighton BN1 1AF
